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Location: California, United States

Thursday, February 09, 2006

"Say it Like" for only a moment

Lunch time and I stepped into the building’s atrium. Blue sky, warm air, and wind met my arrival from the office. Yes, today is the Land Sailors dream.

With my first response, “Whoa”, and for the full effect you must say it like Jeff Spicoli- “Fast Times at Ridgemont High” fame. OK, give it a go- “Whoa”!

OK, you’re getting the idea….

I know this weather, many of times it has met me at the beaches.

With a killer on shore blow- it meets you as you are dropping in on that perfect set. (effect time, say it like Pauly Shore) “Go’en for a one and half- over he’ad and an ah’onnnn-shore blow……..kiss’ennn yur mu’ug”.

Your path is clear and the mist of the water lifting from (Pauly) “be-lo-oo” and showering you, as you make the drop. You look left, then right, and ask yourself, “will it be a “front side”, or will it be a “back side” ride. The face continues to grow. The “Lip” is forming and you can see that hesitation, from the wind holding it in place. The “Lip” begins to quiver, and then floats out onto the breeze. As it holds itself there, you can not help but think, “Mick would be jealous!”

You know what is to follow, and you can not contain your excitement. Then, like a shaken can of Soda, your mouth opens and the only thing coming out is (Spicoli) “Gnarly”! One perfect “bottom turn”, and your in place for the most (Keanau Reeves- “Point Break”) “Awesome Tube”. And you go for it! The perfect curl, and it is floating over your head. Then, as natural as breathing, your fingertips are skimming across the top of this water cylinder swallowing you. So warm, comes the joy and realization of the moment that you have entered. Mother Nature, herself, is revealing her kindness.

Here, at this moment, all you can hear are your thoughts. Tranquil and solace from the mundane life. And, for only a moment, you can sense the surreal state that you have dreamed. The real world comes (Pauly) “Rrr-ush-een” back. You feel the rails of your board grabbing for traction under your feet. The nose of your board, communicating- no asking you for a direction. Like a high performance machine, your board is steady and waiting for your desires. You begin to think. Your thoughts of that perfect “wave placement”; then, like you and your board are as one, it responds. You can sense the increase of speed as you come flying out of the “barrel”. Like before, you can feel the board asking, “cut here”? You look up the face of the wave and say “not yet, Dennis” (like Mr. Wilson, of “Dennis the Menace).

For only a moment.

Reach

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